When you buy a part blindly, you never know what to expect, but it was worth taking the chance I believe. Thankfully I have been able to disassemble the clutch without a major issue. The bleeder screw was snapped off, this gave me a lot of heartburn. Old magnesium is unforgiving. Sprayed a little Kroil on it drilled a small hole and tapped in an extractor, heated up a while with the old heat gun. Little by little put pressure on the extractor. Creak! She let go and came out. After cleaning up the hole I noticed a brass/bronze insert and thought ha, who did that. Called one of my best and oldest friends to thank him for teaching me years ago how to have patience with nuts and bolts. When I told him what I was doing he asked ' hey was there a brass/bronze insert in the mag'? I flipped, how did you know that? That's what the Italians do he said, like someone with 55 years of working on all types of cars and bikes. He said while working on a Ferrari 'P' car, one of 4 or 6 made the magnesium gearbox had those little brass/bronze inserts. He is an amazing mechanic and friend. He's worked on Ferrari GTO's, LM's, Maserati Birdcage, D type's, C types, GT40's. Name the brand and the car. Thanks Nev for sharing your knowledge. Lou

Wow
Amazing masterpiece

And, boy, it does look complicated! A lot more parts than i expected. But it will be glorious once installed. MikeV

Maybe the Italians were ahead on “Timeserts”. And the bronze is not quick to oxidize.

Lou you are the man for the job!!
Can’t wait to see the rest of this one.
Paul

remarkable!!! Great work, old friend.

Hey Lou...Never in my life did I ever think I would see the inner workings of this particularly rare clutch. Very unique design and an expensive way to get rid of three dowel pins and bolts.
Thanks for posting this...
Flattop

Figure you guys would want in on this journey so here we go. Taking the clutch apart has been fairly straight forward, if a bit nerve racking. I have been able to source all the necessary bearings and seals etc. I ordered an aluminum bevel hub as I believe it is what was used to machine to fit. Don't know till I get it. So here are some pictures that helped me understand a few things. So I also have one of these clutches on my Adamo bike and always wondered why the clutch cover had spacers. When I disassembled this clutch I noticed much smaller spacers. I have seen them without these so it was confusing. Now I figured it out. As the clutch pin in the cover that depressed the spring plate would wear the plate would make contact with the inside of the cover. You can see the wear on the parts. So the solution they came up with was to space the cover out. Not good. Both pins can be replaced. Unfortunately one is welded, but I will replace both somehow, so I can assemble it properly. Maybe the pictures will explain this better. That red plate will take some work as a bit of welding has to be done. I will document it as I go along. A lot of work to go, to get this in functional shape, but worth the effort. Lou

Adding the pin and spacer picture as well as the removed bearing in what appears to be a sleeve in the magnesium cover. Maybe aluminum, as I don't think you would want to use steel, and I didn't get a chance to check. Lou

Same problem develops with all the dry clutch Pantah/F1/Paso/Sport release plates. A dip is worn into the center of the plate on that pin cap that is welded to it - some with the pin going into the very small needle bearings of the clutch shaft, and some without - like on your part. I have wondered if they could be welded up and machined down flat again to save them. Or something flat welded on. Maybe the pin could be drilled out and one of the different loose clutch pins cold be welded back in?

Not sure where that small bushing fits, but it looks like an attempt to restore some lost material or make some kind of minute adjustment after the fact? And i wonder if one of the several different small bronze T-caps that fit inside the sealed bearings will work here?

After recently installing the replica NCR clutch kit on an engine i will say they seem to be a bit “touchy”. MikeV

Hi Lou... Is that sleeve the difference between a 26mm piston and a 31mm. Or do you think it is a sacrificial bore to preserve the bore in the magnesium? If it is a reducer, it could potentially be a fix for owners struggling to find 31mm pistons. For anyone that has ridden bikes with the different sized pistons, which combination of piston/master cylinder works best?
Flattop900