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 Post subject: TT2 Rake and Trail
PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2020 2:18 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2014 1:37 pm
Posts: 12
A quick question, what is the rake and trail of a TT2?
I am working on adapting some forks to my frame and my notes seem be wrong.
Everyone has been helpful so I hope someone has the info I need.
I will write about what I am doing when I am done.
please include tire diameter and wheel sizes if possible.
Thanks
Marc


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 Post subject: Re: TT2 Rake and Trail
PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 2:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2014 1:37 pm
Posts: 12
Surely someone has this information , I am surprise no one has answer this.
Marc


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 Post subject: Re: TT2 Rake and Trail
PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2020 6:10 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 14, 2010 11:23 am
Posts: 1811
In his book "Ducati belt-drive two-valve engines" Falloon states that the rake was reduced to 24 degrees on the first TT2 from the 30 degrees used on the Pantah. Probably using an 18-inch front wheel. Later he also states that the F1 was 26 degrees. No mention of trail in either case. You are on your own for the rest. MikeV


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 Post subject: Re: TT2 Rake and Trail
PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2020 3:00 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2014 1:37 pm
Posts: 12
Thanks for the post. I thought it was 24 degrees.
In my notes I had at 66 degrees which was unusual for me as I usually measured it from vertical with my protractor.
I write on what I working on soon. I think it will be of interest.


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 Post subject: Re: TT2 Rake and Trail
PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2020 11:49 am 
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Joined: Sun Aug 19, 2018 1:11 pm
Posts: 143
Hi!

I thought I should throw something in here! I am collecting bits and pieces for my TT1 project, and one of the most important parts is of course the frame. Most natural would be to go for a DM, knowing what you get and good value for money, no doubt. But as I want a potent (read as modern as possible) racing bike most of all, and getting maximum track performance out from a limited number of horsepower I was intrigued by what Steve Munro wrote on his blog about the CMR frames. I quote: ”Taking the steering angle in (a lot) and running a longer swing arm” apparently did the trick. But what is a lot and how much is longer? Anyone that has an idea? Maybe Steve himself reads this and can answer?

But I dont want to pass the river if not needed. I enclose a couple of images of a TT1 built on a Swedish welded frame, in 28mm tubes. The original idea was to make the steering angle steeper, but that was not realized in the end, BUT, there is a possibility to change/adjust the jig! So question is if this is what I should go for, and how much steeper the angle should be. If it is 24 degrees originally, maybe 1 or 1,5 is good. Steeper than 22,5 is too aggressive I assume?

Grateful for any input!

Thanks
/Björn


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 Post subject: Re: TT2 Rake and Trail
PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2020 6:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2014 1:37 pm
Posts: 12
Björn

I like your thinking I know for a fact that 250 GP bikes like the Aprilia had rake around 22 degrees to 20 degrees and won world championships.
There are couple thing to keep in mind .

1. Rake is not really that important. Getting the trail adjusted the important thing to get right.
Tony Foale website has a handy calculator. to to help you run the numbers.
Here is a link to it https://motochassis.com/freeware/ The first program is the one you want.
For wheel diameter use the tire diameter radius. Have fun playing with it.There is article on his website talking about the relation to the angle of the steering axis to rake.
Here is the link https://motochassis.com/articles/experi ... -geometry/

2. I would get my forks and wheels I was going to use worked out first if I having a frame build. The reason I say this is, I am adapting a set of later Ducati 996 USD forks to a TT2. The problem in doing this is the steering bearing in a TT2 frame uses an 52 mm OD taper roller bearing and 996 triple clamp uses an 35 mm ID bearing. Guess what an 52 mm OD by 35 mm ID bearing does not exist. If you making a frame the head stock would be made to fit the triple clamp you are using. In my case I would make the head stock 13 mm longer on the bottom and make it so you could installed 35mm ID by 55 mm bearings. What I did is a story for another post.
More later
Marc


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