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 Post subject: Re: 750 F1 Specs & Info
PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 6:57 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 4:44 am
Posts: 1352
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Sumfun4me wrote:
I found some nice detail photo's of the rear floating disc that are probably worth putting up for future reference:

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This is a Brembo Goldline 260mm full floating disc as fitted to the rear of the '85 bike.


is very beautiful your brake disc, I noticed that the inner hub has always remained the same, but the steel track, I have also found types, with lightening holes of different groups such as 4mm holes much closer, I have adopted this type of drilling on racing bikes.


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 Post subject: Re: 750 F1 Specs & Info
PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 7:03 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 4:44 am
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Sumfun4me wrote:
Graeme,
thanks for the tip, but after checking his store I couldn't find anything.

Carlo,
How much would you charge me to make 4 of the clevis ends with pins, and 2 of the gear shift rods (all out of stainless)?

Clinton



Hello, now I will take away from my montjich the pin, and I make an assessment if you can do this, I will make you see the pictures of the pieces to replicate, for me it is easiest to do with the picture .... sorry ... You are to wait, that I come in a little time and let you know, then you decide whether to buy or not.

Greetings from Italy. :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: 750 F1 Specs & Info
PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 7:55 pm 
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nuovi Dischi Freno


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 Post subject: Re: 750 F1 Specs & Info
PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 3:29 am 
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I found this short article by Luca Guala which I'm sure he wont mind sharing with the forum members (If the mods think it's breaking some plagiarism rules or something it can be removed). It is well-worded & explains the basic set up for the ignition pickups in the Pantah engine. As a side note, I tested the NOS pickups that I have for resistance & both recorded 228 Ohms, so I would assume that this is a number worth sharing in the event anyone is wanting to test theirs.

Pantah Ignition Pickup Connection by Luca Guala

Periodically, someone asks how the pick ups must be connected once
disassembled and possibly rewired. Here's the final word, keep this as
a reference:

The vertical head pickup is the one in front of the flywheel, the
horizontal head one is below the flywheel. Since the flywheel turns anti-clockwise, seen from the left side of the motor, the vertical head pickup will fire first, the horizontal head pickup will fire after 90°. The spark plugs on the Pantah fire each turn of the crank, so there's a "wasted spark" each cycle. The "good" spark for one cylinder alternates with the wasted spark for the other. If you off-time one camshaft of 1/2 turn, no matter which camshaft, no matter in which direction, the motor will still run, but the timing will not be 450°-270° any more, but 630°-90°: a big bang Pantah.

There are two cables connected to each pickup. They are both marked "V"
for VERTICALE and O for "ORIZZONTALE" at both ends. The markings are on
little plastic rings that may well be missing after over 20 years. the 4 cables run inside a common rubber sheath to a 4-pin connector under the tank, that joins to the wiring that then connects to the Bosch BTZ modules and the coils.

At the pickup end, the wires are both the same colour, usually black, but they are not interchangeable! (Clinton: on the 750F1 there is one all white wire & one white wire with a black trace). At the connector end, one wire for each pickup is green and one green with a black stripe (Clinton: again, the wires are white & black/white on the F1). So if you look at the connector, you will see a green wire and a green/black one with a little ring marked "O" and a green and a green/black one with a ring marked "V". The female half of the connector cannot be fitted inverted to the male half: if you look at it from the pins side, you will see that it has a V shaped notch at one side, between the two wires, and two corners cut of at the other side. Still looking at the female half connector from the pins side, the cables are as follows: top left: V-green/black; top right: V-green; bottom left: O-green/black; bottom right: O-green

In order to remove the pickups from the motor, or fit them back, the cables must pass through a hole in the engine LH case. Once the cable goes through this bolt, the passage is made oil-tight by a rubber ring compressed by a plastic nut. The plastic nut screws into a brass nut which is very tightly fastened to the crankcase. The brass nut has a 21 mm hexagon head (13/16" or spark plug wrench size) but it's very shallow and not easy to remove. The best way to remove and fit back the pickup cable is to remove the cable ends from the 4-pin connector, which requires a special tool. It can be also done with a very small screwdriver, the kind used for eyeglasses: fit the screwdriver between the plastic connector and each female pin, at the two sides of the "slit" in the pin. This will flatten the two "wings" that hold the pin in place. Now press the pin from above towards the cable and it will
slip out. To re-fit, just carefully pry open the "wings" again.

Luca


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 Post subject: Re: 750 F1 Specs & Info
PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 4:26 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2013 7:13 am
Posts: 160
To disconnect the inner wires in the connectors, Ducati has a special tool : 887130114.
See 860 GT manual page 168
Never seen it but a bit of work on the lathe and the correct dimensions helped me out.

For the female connectors : ID 3 mm and OD 3.8 mm
For the male connectors : ID 2.5 mm and OD 4.1 mm
Both about 15 mm deep.
It still is a bit of wriggling but easier than a small screwdriver (which eventually wil end up into Your exposed fingers).

ciao
ducadini

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