What can I say? It's all very beautiful and well done! Photos please.

Didn’t you need one of my special tools Carlo? Customs into Italy shouldn’t be too bad. No. Ok.

And here is a little dry fitting trying to head off metal-to-metal conflicts: Have to move the clutch cable outboard to keep it aligned and working smoothly, and now that almost touches the frame; and the H carb bowl nut just touches the engine frame lug even after putting on bowls with 17mm nuts instead of the original small long ones. At least there is no frame contact. I also see i can pull the V cam cap and rocker rods (no modern clips inside these heads) for valve adjustments without pulling the frame off - like a TT. Replacing the V cam belt will be tedious, but doable. Going to use a Bosch ignition, and the lightened flywheel and hub are shown. Lou will really like the nice shiny cover i have for the left side. MikeV

How's the clearance for getting out the vertical spark plug? Lou

Yes, that is a close one Lou. One way is to tighten the plug by hand, and then final tighten with the socket on an extension that slips past the frame. And vise versa. Or i might grind off the hex on the socket. Or make a special short socket like the one needed for the 10mm plug on the right side of the dual-plugged horizontal head of the F1/TT1.

It looks like the beefed-up NCR swingarm and a 13.5-inch Bitubo shock for a 750 Sport will just clear the carb and footpeg hangers. And the H carb bowl is free of the engine when installed and tightened correctly.

But got to get me some more shiny parts like the alternator cover. Maybe a few hours on the rocker covers would do?

MikeV

As a follow-up, it seems that 14 clutch plates is the combination that works - pressure to work, and yet it releases - if a bit close right now. This puts the stack much closer (2 mm) to the big retaining ring before the springs are tightened than stock (4-5mm). We will see once it is running. MikeV

Hi Mike, I'm looking forward to seeing the shiny cover that Lou will like! As soon as I have a minute, I'll show you my Deltabox and what I need to do to unscrew the spark plugs from the cylinders... you humans can't possibly know...

Mike coming along nicely!
What angle are you going to in the swingarm at?
Thanks
Paul

Why do you ask? Does it look too steep? I am trying to get more ground clearance for those 60 degree lean angles. And I have put on weight this winter. Seriously.

It is not as steep as it might look in the photo. And the first thing I noticed about the frame is that the upper bracket for the front/top of the shock is over one inch farther forward over the cylinder head, and higher than any TT or F1 have. And the point for attachment to the swingarm is about the same measurement (bolt to swingarm pin) as those bikes mentioned. So, no 12-inch shock is going to work; i tried, it was silly. The frame looked like a GP bike after the start light went off - squat. So using my eyeball method and looking at the other bikes in the garage i will start with this shock. It is close to good and easy to install. I do have some other choices, but we will see once it is on the ground with some weight on it.

MikeV

Hi Mike, I was curious to see you if you had an angle you were trying to get.
I have winded between 11 and 13 degrees not sure I how I ever arrived at theirs numbers ( old age can’t remember).

Paul

From memory, suspension for mortals suggests 12 degrees of swing arm droop.
Works well on my TT rep
Graeme