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pantah_good
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Post subject: Re: Aussie TT2 track bike build Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 7:31 pm |
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Joined: Fri Oct 15, 2010 12:20 pm Posts: 1275 Location: Vermont, USA
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Shmokica, get one of these and you can easily keep your carbs dead nuts. I use it before every outing and got it down to about 10 minutes at max. sensitivity. Piece of cake. Bill http://www.ascycles.com/detail.aspx?ID=2146
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Pantah600
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Post subject: Re: Aussie TT2 track bike build Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 4:57 am |
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 1:26 am Posts: 175 Images: 6 Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Thanks Gentlemen! That's the sort of information & knowledge one needs to learn. -Wolf, the starter motor will be retained. The primary use for this bike will only be for the track. (it is not road registrable). -Brad, thanks mate. You are a good man and I'm glad you've joined this forum. I'll investigate the cost of genuine parts and hope I can get them. You would't happen to know the latest part number for them? Have you got your dyno up & running? I'll need it for this! And, I may need your expertise too! -Shmokica, thanks for your kind words. I'm trying to do this project as best I can fund. What with the garden landscaping and this little project, I don't find much time over summer. Gents, I've heeded your opinions and will install the springs. One less issue to worry about when it comes to getting it up and running, eventually! Thanks again. Cheers, Steve
_________________ "...Honey, it's only a project bike...."
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brad black
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Post subject: Re: Aussie TT2 track bike build Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 6:41 am |
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:36 pm Posts: 205
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066047230? it's the # on the 2007 695 parts list as well as the 600 pantah. list in 2007 was around $16.
no dyno as yet.
good idea on the starter and springs. i remember track days in the 90's where just before the start of your group someone would wander up asking for a push. and it was always an eleventy to one comped shitbox single that wouldn't run if satan himself was after it. starter motor is good. can you fit a late small one?
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graeme
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Post subject: Re: Aussie TT2 track bike build Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 6:50 am |
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Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 10:54 pm Posts: 541 Location: Brisbane
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Steve, I use 1/2 weight light springs, my 750 idles fine. (road bike) Graeme
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Pantah600
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Post subject: Re: Aussie TT2 track bike build Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 6:40 am |
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 1:26 am Posts: 175 Images: 6 Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Hi Graeme, hope you are well and had a festive Christmas & New Year? Thanks for your information, I'm not exactly sure of your 1/2 weight closing springs. Where did you get them and what are they from? Thanks for the P/N Brad! You were spot on since I put my A** in to Gear and dismantled the crank and conrods. The bearings were stamped with that p/n. Yeah, about the starter it's so I don't have to stuff around with a roller starter and in regards to the closing springs, I was being lazy! I don't know if the DOCV has a spring & rocker holder tool that allows me to hold the rocker & spring combo, fit the shims, load the shaft and fit the other side shims... I only have 2 hands. So, a mate at work suggested I zip tie the closing spring in the fitted position locked on to the rocker and slip the shims in all with 2 hands.... A few issues have cropped up, the RHS engine case belt adjuster arm helicoils have been damaged by the baccalano before me. He ham-fisted the bolts and fitted a 3/8 hex head bolt as a pivot bolt on the horizontal adjuster arm. Adjusting the belts required 2 sized sockets. I'm sourcing Keenserts to repair the M8 threads in 2 locations. Attachment:
Engine2.jpg [ 201.47 KiB | Viewed 2127 times ]
The other issue is both heads have 0.2mm clearance between the exhaust valve to guide. The intakes are well within the max. wear limit of 0.08mm as you all know. The max clearance is at the valve end only. The rocker ends are within the max. wear limit. Why would it have this condition? Another thing to note was when I removed the crankshaft plugs, the big end grub screws have a firm slug of material (i'm not sure of what it is, but it is crumbling) stuck to them after I removed them... Attachment:
Crank1.jpg [ 109.97 KiB | Viewed 2127 times ]
Attachment:
Crank2.jpg [ 113.46 KiB | Viewed 2127 times ]
I also found the end grub screw fairly loose when i unscrewed it. Isn't this also loctited in? Also, do I pre-fill the crank pin with oil before I loctite the grub screws back in? Thanks for your information. Cheers, Steve
_________________ "...Honey, it's only a project bike...."
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Wolf
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Post subject: Re: Aussie TT2 track bike build Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:26 am |
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Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2012 6:50 pm Posts: 101
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Hi Steve, nice idea with the zip ties! ...there is also a factory tool (number 7 in the attached picture) avaiable, sometimes also to be found on ebay, if badly needed... If a helicoil is already spoiled, you may repair it with a timesert M8, bit more eypensive but maybe more trustworthy.. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid= ... &_from=R40The valve guides are shot, I would renew them . Never mind if one side is still inside the specs. Sludge srcrews in the big end: there are three of them (number 2 in the attached picture, the third is in the left side of the big end, which I would also remove and clean the whole thing very thouroughly with thin brushes and solvent or gasoline. Many times, until the solvent comes out clean. I've just done it and it takes some time.... I wouldn't fill in oil prior to loctiting the screws, although loctite may be oil tolerant to a certain level. I've cleaned the srews & threads with a solvent and glued them in with loctite. After installing the conrods I filled some oil in the big end. Cheers Wolf
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graeme
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Post subject: Re: Aussie TT2 track bike build Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 5:37 am |
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Joined: Sun Nov 07, 2010 10:54 pm Posts: 541 Location: Brisbane
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Hello Steve, I had some light springs made for a 450. The bear traps that are in the desmo single heads just load up the Oldham coupling and the bevels unesesarily. So I used some of these in the 750 too. I don't think they will make much difference in a Pantah head. Also I used 900ie cams so I don't know if it would idle with TT2 cams. They are a copy of twin springs just half the strength, 4kg to 2kg if I remember. Any good spring maker can make them. Graeme
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Pantah600
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Post subject: Re: Aussie TT2 track bike build Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2013 7:36 am |
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Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 1:26 am Posts: 175 Images: 6 Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Thanks Wolf for your information. I suspect the sludge is contaminants from the oil being flung around within the big end by centrifugal forces. I will clean the threads and internal holes. Thanks Graeme for your info. Spring maker eh? My bed is just about gone....so, I may have all the spring wire I need! I just need to get Brad to replace my valve guides......... Brad? Cheers, Steve
_________________ "...Honey, it's only a project bike...."
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brad black
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Post subject: Re: Aussie TT2 track bike build Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 8:21 am |
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Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:36 pm Posts: 205
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get the guides k-lined. i'd only replace them if they were damaged or loose.
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Sumfun4me
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Post subject: Re: Aussie TT2 track bike build Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 8:45 am |
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Joined: Thu Apr 21, 2011 4:29 am Posts: 275 Images: 1
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Brad,
what is k-lined?
Clinton
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