I have a 350 (550) Elefant and changed the engine to a 650 with oil cooler. Just swapped the engines and used the existing points for fitting the cooler (on the left side on the ddowntube).
Didn't bother looking for dowels or other changes to restrict oilflow, but everything went fine.
Don't know about the changes between the oilcooler 650 and the 350 without cooler but I suspect there must be some.

Are there any drawings of the oil-scheme anywhere on the www ?

ciao
ducadini

Hi Filippo...
This is probably the easiest way to go. A drill and tap. I agree with Mike that the best place for cooled oil to go, is directly to the crank or cams, but that is more work. I also think that unless you know your motor is getting to hot, maybe you should hold off on the cooler until your motor is in a higher state of tune.
Best of luck...
Flattop900
PS. What cams are you running?

Thanks everibody for replying.

""can of worms", but will certainly require disassembling the top of the engine. Wait till winter if you are doing that. Go racing."
618F1
i start to think you are right, this is not a plug-in job, a lot of little adjustment are involved.
So i will try to find the easyest way to do this, otherwise i will wait for this winter.
Ducadini,
i know swapping from a elefant to elefant engine is easy if both engine have the oil cooler, because they have the internal oil line to the head closed because the external oil cooler line.
Flattop900
i run stock Alazzurra 350 cam

Thank for your help
Caio
Filippo

Not exactly great drawing of oil systems but my drawings of both F1 and later oil lines and early (650) style to the heads. In the 650 version the oil is uncooled but filtered to the crank. In order to filter and cool on the older motors you would need to intersect the flow of oil in the side cover like the second generation TT2 did by adding an oil boss. AS noted the oil to the heads is unfiltered in both my print. You can tap off the crank feed from the side cover to the heads and this would be filtered.
-Cranky-

I appreciate the drawings Cranky. But, doesn't all the oil eventually become filtered? MikeV

With the right parts and equipment, and some luck, this could probably be done over a weekend. MikeV

Here's another picture of the same set up with a different cover. Does anyone know if the manual clutch is a modified stock item or a special casting? Any idea what the inside looks like? The lower line, I assume, is the feed to the cooler and the top, to the crank. Does the lower line carry filtered oil? With a double tap at the feed side of the cooler, for the heads, everything could benefit from filtered oil.
Flattop900

Flattop. I was looking for that photo, but could not find it. These were sold by NCR in their parts catalog, to be a modification of the customer's part. I have one that may or may not be that. It is a stock part, drilled and tapped for 10mm banjo bolts. Bushes can move the banjos out for access. The inside oil passage from pump to crank is blocked with an insert at the crankshaft hole, so that oil returns only from the cooler line. Lines to the cam end caps can be added like either of Cranky's sketches if you want to do that. Or, they were commonly taken from the oil pressure switch outlet. MikeV

I can use the oil pressure hole for going to the cooler and drilling the right carter to return, just need to block with an insert the oil passage from pump to crankshaft . is this right?

Thanks again
Filippo

Fillipo The answer is NO.
The line coming out the side cover next to the sight window comes from the oil filter. (see flat tops picture).
Then you see the return from the cooler goes to the end of the crank. The cover has a plug in the normal passage to allow this bypass. If you come from the pressure switch (unfiltered) it will not go through the filter.
-Cranky-